L'Ami Louis is in one of central Paris's least fashionable neighborhoods, far removed from the part of the Marais that has become chic, and its facade has seen better days. It was one of Paris's most famous brasseries in the 1930s, thanks to its excellent food served in copious portions and its old-fashioned decor. Its traditions are fervently maintained today. Amid a "brown gravy" decor (the walls retain a smoky patina), dishes like roasted suckling lamb, pheasant, venison, confit of duckling, and endless slices of foie gras may commune on your marble-topped table. Though some whisper that the ingredients aren't as select as they were in the restaurant's heyday, its sauces are as thick as they were between the wars. Don't save room for dessert, which isn't very good.